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Click on this link to learn more about stair building, design and home repairs. Here’s another problem created by building designers, do-it-yourselfers and stair builders and it usually has something to do with the top section of the deck where it meets with the stairway and there’s either a nosing or no-no’s. I’m guessing that you won’t have to look very long before you find the stairway built like this in your area. I see them all the time and it’s usually an extremely easy problem to fix, once you’re aware of it.

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29 Responses

  1. Well, this just saved me from a BIG problem! New deck build. I just tacked my stringers up last night. My first tread is to be level with the deck. However, the deck boards will overhang the rim joist by 1" so I'll need a 1" spacer between the stringers and the rim joist. Otherwise my first tread will overhang an inch too far. Correct?

  2. How is a stringer less staircase connected at its top? Mine are built out of 3/4 boards. Screwing into 3/4 boards seems like the connection would be to flimsey.

  3. In the Netherlands we use a stair formula: 2 x UP + 1 x FW = 570 to 630 mm
    or in inches (please help me my God) : 2 x UP + 1 x FW = 22 to 25 inch
    So with a FW = 11 inch we get 2x UP = 22 – 11 = 11 so UP = 5½ to 7 inch not even close to 10 inch.

  4. That's the run. The principle of repeatability also applies to the rise. Stringer mounting and bottom finishing need to accommodate any differences in thicknesses between the step material and the flooring material on both the upper and lower landings.

  5. Without nosing they look like crap and allow more water infiltration into the riser. Also wrapping the sides of the deck to cover the ends of the boards just traps water and rots the ends of the boards faster as no where for the water to escape. Hacks are abundant in the building trades.

  6. Its a fact that we humans do notice even quite a small change in the 'Going & Rise' of a staircase.. Our brain will detect, via our feet dimensional changes on a staircase….In UK the normal angle for domestic stairs is 42 degrees which equates to 150mm rise to 220mm going. l believe 37 degrees is considered optimal

  7. Another problem that messes up a lot of people, including some "professionals", is confusion between the RUN and the TREAD. The examples shown here all have an 11 inch run, which its the measurement from rise to riser. That number stays the same, even with the 1 inch nosing. The nosing examples here gives you a 12 inch tread, but the run is still only 11 inches. The TOP step has no nosing above it (on the deck), but the RUN of it is STILL 11 inches like the rest, even though the entire 12 inch tread is now exposed. Cutting the back off the stringers like some suggest would now give that top step an 11 inch tread, but only a 10 inch run. That's an illegal situation in many places, where code says the run cannot vary any more than 5 mm (3/16 inch) between any 2 adjacent steps. The only real solution, like this video shows, is to make sure the nosings are consistent all the way up, including on the landing/deck surface, whether 1 inch each, less, or none at all.

  8. if they were stair builders these things would not occur. and yes in the state of oregon, for a time, there was overemphasis on stairs because it was the #1 infraction in the state. The states fix was to eventually lessen the code. This is where humanity is at.

  9. The simple rules to the design a safe straight staircase are:-
    1. The profile of every step must be identical.
    2. The rake of the stair must not exceed 42 degrees.
    3. Width of tread + twice the height of riser = between 22 & 28 inches. The perfect ratio is 12" tread with 6" riser.
    Here in UK, nosings are not an issue. All domestic stairs must have 16mm (5/8") nosings over all risers.
    Winders? Ah! They are another set of rules all together.

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